Monday, December 30, 2013

Arrival in Paris

The view from our apartment across from the Luxembourg Gardens was nice, especially with the sunshine.


The inside window opened onto a pretty little courtyard and the roofline was quintessentially Parisian. Love the blue and dormers.


We ventured out to explore and pick up our Paris museum passes. And get lunch. Must have food!  Our apartment is on Bd. Saint Michel, about a ten-minute walk to the river. We checked out Notre Dame, gawked at the two-blocks-long line to go up the tower, and crossed the pedestrian bridge onto Il Saint Louis.


I had read about a cafe there and wanted to find it for lunch. Find it we did!  Cafe Saint Regis. I had the plat du jour - a delicious chicken with rice and peppers. Eric tried the croque monsieur with pommes frites and we split a lovely carafe of Cotes du Rhone.  Everything was so good!  http://www.cafesaintregisparis.com/en/




Even on a dreary day, Paris is pretty.


Peek-a-boo! 


Love the delicate details.


Flipped umbrella.


Me and Mr. Black! A couple of guys from MIT we taking their own pictures next to us, so we took some for them and they took some for us. Nice! 


By then, we were ready to call it a day. We walked along until we found an inviting bistrot. We shared four different crepes and I got some cafe. Win!


The view from the apartment is pretty swell. This apt is only temporary, though, we'll be in a different one for the rest of our stay. 


Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Ah, Venice!

Ah, Venice, indeed.  Home to gondolas (and gondoliers!), ferry boats, wooden motor boats, tourists with $3 umbrellas, pigeons and people bustling from one place to the next.  Seriously, I think Venetians didn't get the memo that Italians aren't supposed to rush hither and thither.  To me, Venice was an assault on the senses that none of the other Italian towns we visited were.  There's just so much happening, it was difficult for me to take it all in. 

Before we left for Italy, we had booked our tickets on the newish train service, Italo Treno, to help foster the competitive rail travel industry.  Pft.  What am I saying?  Their trains are newer and looked nice and were a little cheaper than the other service.  After waiting in the Italo waiting area at the Santa Maria Novella train station in Florence, we sped our way to Venice.  It was nice.  I like trains; they feel modern and old-fashioned at the same time.




We stepped off the train in Venice to follow the crowds into the station, where we purchased our water ferry passes.  Great deal!  Unlimited number of ferry rides within the "network" for 72 hours.  I think we ended up going up and down the Grand Canal at least three times, just because we could. 

Hotel Violino d'Oro was home for a few days and it was lovely.  Also, very easy to find, which was fantastic considering we took the wrong ferry at the train station.  Ah, well. 


After checking in, we got settled in and relaxed for a bit while a rainstorm passed over.  When it mostly ended, we ventured out for our first real look at Venice.  It was absolutely beautiful.  There were very few people out with us, so our first look at Piazza San Marco was beautifully lit with the setting sun and a bit of shimmer from the rain, and practically no one out. 


We walked around with no destination in mind, looking for a nice place for dinner.  This was our view, and it only got better when the gondolas drifted past.


After dinner, we hopped ferry line #2 to go up and down the Grand Canal and see the beautiful buildings lit up.


I'll give you one guess as to what this is.... Where are all the people?  It's packed to the rafters with tourists during the day.


The next day dawned overcast and drizzly, so, armed with our umbrellas, we set out to get lost.  And look who we found!  There was a gondola station just outside our hotel, so we got to see these guys all the time.  Rough, I know.


I love Rick Steves and his walking tours.  They really do take you around to places you probably wouldn't find on your own, like this beautiful staircase.  According to Rick, external staircases were built in order to conserve space inside.  Nice.


Traffic jam without exhaust and honking horns. 


Lee and me on the Rialto, photo taken by a very nice American couple.


Of all the bridges in all the towns in Italy, you had to show up on this one.  Seriously??  In case you don't know, I'm a Boilermaker.  That scarlet ball cap is for the Indiana University Hoosiers, mortal enemies of all Boilermakers. I thought I was inconspicuously taking this picture, so I'm not sure if the bearded dude in the hat is gesturing to me, or if he's just your typical Italian having a normal conversation.  Anyhoo, it turned into a fun picture.


After a while, we decided that we'd had enough of aimless wandering and decided to hop a ferry for Lido Island.  It was only about a 10-minute ride, so we got there in plenty of time for lunch at the beach.  I wouldn't recommend lunch at the Blue Beach pizza place, but the location made up for the uninspiring food.  I'm not sure what I was expecting of the beach, but I loved all the broken shells. 


One of Lee's favorite things to do is to touch new bodies of water, so she was able to cross the Adriatic Sea off of her list.  We could see a storm coming in and decided to head back to Venice.  One of my favorite things was to see the crush of boats on the water.  It was incredible to see how boats drifted around each other - it was like a dance with no music.


We wanted our last real dinner in Italy to be wonderful and memorable, so we hopped another ferry across the canal and headed to Harry's Dolci.  It.  Was.  Incredible.  The food was amazing.  The wine was delicious.  The service was impeccable.  If you can go, I cannot recommed it more highly. 


Our last day in Venice dawned grey and drizzly again.  No worries.  We crossed the canal and walked around what felt like a typical Italian neighborhood.  Not a lot of people and window boxes full of beautiful flowers.  We loved it over there.  Because the crowds were over in Piazza San Marco, we were able to really enjoy walking around.





After that, we left Venice for the airport and we were sad, but full of amazing memories. 

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Florence, day two-ish

Our second day in Florence dawned with bright blue skies and a gentle breeze. 


We crossed over to the Oltrano, with a hazy goal of reaching the battlements of Fort Belvedere.  We passed the Pitti Palace and walked up to the gates leading into the Boboli Gardens.  It was nice to have a bit of a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city.



We found our way up to Fort Belvedere only to see that it was closed.  Ah, well.  We walked back across the river to the Uffizi where Lee had fallen in love with a painting, but hadn't bought it the day before.  With fingers crossed, we found the painter in the same place and, lo and behold! The painting was still there.  It's now in its new home in Carmel. 

We returned to the hotel to gather our bags and headed to the train station to catch our ride to Venice. 

Thursday, May 30, 2013

Florence

Florence was fast and furious.  We checked into the hotel then set out to see the sights. 

 
 
Pretty sure this lion is appalled at all the nudity and violence in this piazza.
 
 
You all know what the David looks like, so I thought I'd share a picture from a different perspective.
 
 
The Duomo, as seen from 300 or so steps up in the Campanille.
 
 
 
Made it almost to the top before we had to stop.
 
 
If there's a carousel, we'll be on it.
 
 
 
Ate a truly fantastic dinner at Il Giordino around the corner from our hotel.  The service was excellent, because our server was the owner (at left, below).  And we met our chef, her husband (center, below).  Definitely recommend.
 
 
 

It's all about the wine

One of my favorite wines in the States is Banfi Centine.  When I found out that we could visit the Banfi vineyards and do tastings, a stop there was added as a "must" for the trip.  We found the castello and managed to beat a tour bus into the tasting room.  There, we met a fun couple from D.C. and chatted with them about our travel adventures.  They weren't so lucky with their rental car, a Fiat Panda (I think).  This is us and them, Jen and Brad. 

 
Banfi vines.

 

 
Next stop was Montepulciano, AKA, "Is this hill seriously that steep?" Great views from the top, though.

 
One of the clock towers has this great bell ringer.  We ate lunch underneath the tower, so we had an earful when it rang.

Tuscany - Siena & Volterra

Let's just skip the part where we got lost driving to our B&B and didn't check in until 9:30 PM. 

We arrived at Agriturismo il Caggio (http://www.ilcaggio.it/en/home.html), got all settled in and had the most wonderful meal prepared for us by Rebecca's mamma. I wish I had caught her name, we just called her Mamma.  This is Rebecca & her Mamma.


Seriously, the best meal we've had so far in Italy.  Four courses: bruschetta, linguini with ragu, steak & grilled potatoes, and a dessert I couldn't pronounce then and can't remember now.  Accompanied by a lovely red wine.

The following morning, we had a nice breakfast and headed out with no particular direction in mind.  We ended up heading toward Volterra, so we stopped there and walked around.  The Roman ruins are neat, but a bit boring, to be honest.  Maybe if we had walked in and around them they would have been better.  Kind of hard to beat the Forum in Rome...


No sparkly vampires in sight.
 
 
Everywhere I looked, I said, "Ooooh, it's so pretty!"


Siena was a challenge.  It's a big(ish) town and the center is all off-limits to cars.  That means we had to park a bit of a distance away, but we weren't expecting to be this far away!  OK, fine, we parked in the wrong place.  But we had a great view of the cathedral!

 
Get back in the car, find a closer spot, and walk 10 minutes to this.  What an incredible sight to see in person.  It's just gorgeous.  I think JJ Abrams would be proud of the lens flare there...


 
Not entirely sure why  this parade was happening, but it was so much fun to see.  As we were walking to the duomo, we heard drums, and then we saw some boys dressed up and throwing flags.  As more and more people gathered, but nothing happened, we decided to continue to the duomo.  As we returned, the parade was getting under way.  There were a lot of people now and maybe two dozen boys and men with flags.  There was also a very popular trio of pugs.  One owner held his pug up so it could see the parade.  TOO CUTE!